Adjustable pattern



Feb. 11, 1941. D. J. CIERI ADJUSTABLE PATTERN Filed June 18, 19383nventor DOM/NICK J 675m JM'AZML Gttomeg Patented Feb. 11, 1941 ETENTOFFECE 3 Claims.

This invention relates to apattern for the cutting of garments and isparticularly intended to provide a pattern which is adjustable todifferent sizes of forms, and a novel method whereby garments may bepre-fitted by the use of such patterns.

The primary object of the invention is to provide a pattern which ismade in the form of a loose fitting garment, which may be fitted to a wperson and then used for determining the size and shape of the varioussections that are to be out for making up the garment.

Another object of the invention is to provide such a pattern which maybe used for fitting 5 various sizes of garments and to obtain all of thesizes necessary for cutting a garment to fit a particular form in aminimum amount of time.

A further object of the invention is to provide a method having noveladvantages over methods heretofore used in the cutting of garments.

Further objects and advantages of my invention may be clearly understoodfrom the follow- 25 ing description and from the accompanying drawing inwhich:

Figure 1 is a front view, in elevation, illustrating my improvedadjustable pattern and the manner in which it is used.

30 Figure 2 is a back View of the same also in elevation.

Figure 3 is a plan view showing the sections forming one-half of myimproved adjustable pattern.

35 Figure 4 is a plan view, in elevation, illustrating the manner inwhich the sections of my improved pattern are used in the cutting of apiece of material.

Figures 5 and 6 are plan views, in elevation,

40 illustrating templates which are used in connection with myadjustable pattern for obtaining the neck and arm sizes of a garment.

Figure '7 is a front View in elevation, illustrating my adjustablepattern and templates and the 45 manner in which they are used.

As illustrated in the drawing, the numeral 5 denotes my improvedadjustable pattern as made for the coat of a garment. The said patterncomprises front sections 6 and I, side sections 8, 9,

50 I and II, and back sections I2 and I3.

The said sections are joined together by means of separable fastenersId, of a suitable type, whereby they may be joined together to form thecomplete pattern and separated from each other 55 when desired. Each ofsaid fasteners is provided with a stripper I5, of well knownconstruction, which is commonly used in such devices.

All of the sections above mentioned are first joined together by meansof the separable fasteners I 4 to form a loose fitting coat as illus- 5-trated in Figures 1 and 2. The shoulders of the said coat are fastenedtogether by means of snap fasteners, indicated at I6, and downwardlyhanging strips I! are provided at the centers of the front, back andsides of the said coat. These strips are divided longitudinally by thefasteners M which extend for the full length thereof.

As illustrated in Figure 3 of the drawing, each of the sections formingthe pattern are lined with lines I8 for the purpose to be hereinafterde- 15.

scribed.

The arm size template, illustrated in Figure 5, consists of two sectionsI9 and which are formed in the shape of an arm opening and adjustablysecured. together by means of adjusting 20 nuts, indicated at ZI and 22,which are threaded to screws extending through the slots 23 and 24 toprovide means whereby the said template may be adjusted to various sizesof arm openings.

The neck size template, illustrated in Figure 6, 25 consists preferablyof four of the sections 25, which are secured by means of adjusting nuts26 having screws threaded thereto which extend through a slot 21 in eachof said sections. When the said sections are joined together they form a30 template in the shape of a neck opening.

In the use of my improved pattern, all of the sections are first joinedtogether by means of the separable fasteners I4 and the snap fastenersIt to provide a loose fitting pattern in the form of a garment such asthe coat illustrated. The said pattern is then applied over the personfor Whom a garment is to be cut, and fitted by folding the differentsections of the pattern, as indicated at 28, and pinning the said foldswith pins 29 until the proper fit is obtained.

After the pattern has been adjusted to the fit which is desired of thegarment that is to be out thereto, it is stripped apart, into thedifferent sections forming the same, by separating the separablefasteners by means of the strippers I5, so that the said sections willeach provide a separate pattern for each section which is to be cut forthe garment.

As illustrated in Figure 4, a section with the folds 28 pinned thereonis laid upon a sheet of material 30 from which a section, conformingwith the pattern section, is to be cut. This sheet of material 30 may beeither a sheet of paper for cutting a finished pattern therefrom, or asheetof textile material from which a garment is to be cut. The edges ofthe said pattern section are traced on the said sheet and then thepattern section is removed therefrom leaving an outline indicating thesewing lines for the garment section which is to be cut from the sheet3|]. The said sheet is then cut at a suitable distance from the saidsewing lines to leave sufficient material for forming the seams.

It Will, therefore, be seen that when my improved pattern is separatedinto sections, each of the sections will leave a complete pattern of theproper form and size for each section needed to cut a new garment andthat the periphery of the said section will indicate exactly the lineson which the garment sections are to be sewn.

In order to obtain the desired length for the garment, marks such asindicated at 3i are applied on the strips l1. When the said pattern isbeing used for outlining the garment section which is to be cut, a lineis located from the said point 3! on the strip thereof and applied onthe sheet of material 30 as indicated by the dotted line 32. This willgive the correct length for each section that is to be cut for thegarment. If desired, the lengths may be also obtained by measurementsfrom the bottom edge of' the adjustable pattern while it is beingadjusted.

In order that the garment section may be cut with the warp of thematerial 30 running in the correct direction to correspond with the warpin the material of the pattern which as it was fitted to the person, Ihave provided the lines 18 which are disposed vertically on the pattern,or longitudinally upon each section thereof. When the section is beingused as a pattern as, illustrated in Figure 4, the said lines l8 on thepattern are placed so that they will run parallel with the lines 33 onthe sheet 30. After a garment section has been cut to the said pattern,with the warp of the textile material running in the same direction asthe lines 33, and sewn into a garment, the said warp will run in thesame direction as the warp in the pattern did when it was fitted and,thereby, insure that the finished garment will fit in the same mannerthat the pattern was fitted tothe form of the person.

The lines l8 on the pattern will also visibly aid in properlydistributing the adjustments of the pattern 5 so as to avoid pulling inthe material thereof. To facilitate the procurement of the proper sizesfor the arm opening of the garment, the temp-late illustrated in Figure5 is slipped on over the arm of the person and adjusted into a properlyfitting position upon the pattern, adjacent the arm opening therein, asclearly illustrated in Figure 7. The pattern is then marked, along theperiphery of the said template, with a chalk line 34, after which thesaid template is removed.

The collar size template, illustrated in Figure 6,

is then applied around the neck of the person, as clearly illustrated inFigure '7, adjusted into the proper fit and used in the same manner asthe template for the arm size.

When the pattern section is to be cut from the sheet of material 30, aline 36 is drawn for the arm size, at a distance from the line 34 tocompensate for the width of the template sections and the same procedureis followed for neck size on the respective pattern sections.

From the above description it will be clearly understood that I haveprovided, by my invention, a novel adjustable pattern whereby patternsections of the correct size and form may be obtained by actuallyfitting the pattern to the form before using the same, in sections, aspatterns for cutting a material from which a garment is to be made.

By means of my improved adjustable pattern and the novel method ofprocuring the pattern sizes, the operation of accurately fitting agarment and the time required for such operation is greatly reduced.Furthermore, a garment may, in effect, be fitted to a person before itis even cut from the material from which it is to be made; this beingeffected by the novel method of fitting my improved pattern directlyupon the person by means of folding the said pattern as necessary toobtain the fit desired and then retaining the patterns as adjusted bysaid folding until after the textile material, or a finished pattern,,has been cut therefrom.

It is to be understood that while I have illustrated and described myinvention as embodied in a pattern for coats or the like, the saidinvention may also be applied in patterns for other garments such asskirts, pants and the like, without departing from the scope of theinvention as set forth in the appended claims.

I claim:

1. In combination with a pattern in the form of a garment, a templateadapted to be positioned around the arm of a person and against saidpattern for defining a line on said pattern to indicate a line of cutand means for adjusting said template to properly fit said arm.

2. In combination with a pattern of the character described, a templateadapted to be fitted around the neck of a person and against saidpattern for defining a line on said pattern to indicate a line of cutand means for adjusting said template to properly fit the neck.

3. For a pattern of the character described, means for defining a lineon said pattern to indicate the fit around the neck and arm of a person,said means comprising a template including a plurality of curved stripsections joined together by adjustable means and forming a concaved ringshaped member adapted to fit the surface of the body of a personadjacent to the neck and arms.

DOMINICK J. CIERI.

